Mastering Princess Seams

The Problem: Princess seams, or any curved seam will have an outside and an inside curve (shown in red below). The outside curve is sharper as it allows the fabric to fit the curves of the bust. These seams will tend to pucker when sewn, as they do not match in length. But here’s the trick to achieve a perfectly un-bunchy curved seam every time...



Stay-stitch all curved edges of the bodice side fronts and the bodice front, about 1/2” from the cut edge. In the end, this stitching will be inside the final seam so you won’t see it from the outside.


Clip the seam allowances along all the curved sides, right to the stay-stitching. Make the clips every 3/8” to 1/2”. This will help the fabric spread so as to match the curve of the other peice without bunching up.


Starting at the bottom of the seam, pin the two pieces, right sides together, keeping the pins on the outside of the stay-stitching.


Sew the peices together at 5/8” seam.

Press the seams open on a pressing ham from the inside. To further reduce bunching, notch “V” shapes into the seam allowance as shown.

And you’re done! With perfect, un-bunchy princess seams!