Mastering Princess Seams

The Problem: Princess seams, or any curved seam will have an outside and an inside curve (shown in red below). The outside curve is sharper as it allows the fabric to fit the curves of the bust. These seams will tend to pucker when sewn, as they do not match in length. But here’s the trick to achieve a perfectly un-bunchy curved seam every time...



Stay-stitch all curved edges of the bodice side fronts and the bodice front, about 1/2” from the cut edge. In the end, this stitching will be inside the final seam so you won’t see it from the outside.


Clip the seam allowances along all the curved sides, right to the stay-stitching. Make the clips every 3/8” to 1/2”. This will help the fabric spread so as to match the curve of the other peice without bunching up.


Starting at the bottom of the seam, pin the two pieces, right sides together, keeping the pins on the outside of the stay-stitching.


Sew the peices together at 5/8” seam.

Press the seams open on a pressing ham from the inside. To further reduce bunching, notch “V” shapes into the seam allowance as shown.

And you’re done! With perfect, un-bunchy princess seams!

Cootie Catcher!

Cootie Catcher Wedding Invitation Package

catch the details here

I used to love these "cootie catcher" fortune teller things as a kid. They're fun to fold and fun to play with! I also had a small obsession with origami and just had to work this into a wedding invitation. So here it is! Just a sample to entice my customers, but I hope someone is bold enough to use this fun style for their wedding, because it's extra fun to make!

I really enjoy the challenge of coming up with non traditional wedding invitation layouts. It's like a fun puzzle to solve.

~ Inquisition ~
What's the craziest / most interesting / most unique wedding invitation you've seen?

Evening Solace Gown

Just finished this little number last night to wear to a friend's wedding in March. I really love it! The colors are very bold, and the bodice is made of an interesting paisley patterned mocha and turquoise brocade. I've recently been inspired by brocades very much. Check out some more fabrics that I've found to offer for custom orders from one•little•m!

I would not call myself an expert seamstress just yet, as I still make mistakes from time to time, but this one turned out really, really well. I feel like I made a lot of headway with it as far as my skill level. I'll be especially excited to wear this one.

Also the title of this dress is the title of a Charlotte Bronte poem. The colors reminded me of the 1800s era, as well as the ornate nature of the bodice.. and there's an unexplainable something about it that reminded me of Bronte and of poetry.

Evening Solace Gown
see more about this item here

Gorgeous Inspiration, Thank You Very Mucha

Alphonse Mucha (pronounced mooka) was a Czech Art Nouveau artist best known for his beautiful, ornamentally adorned studies of women. His work could be found in advertisements and wine bottles in the 1920s era. Boy! They don't advertise like they used to, that's for sure.

Check out this poster for the St. Louis World's Fair!

I've always been so very impressed with his work. I love the detail, the usage of thick outlines, and the alluring combination of pastels and rich colors. I remember once in college photocopying all the pages of a book full of his work to take home and study. I wasn't sure what exactly I could do with this inspiration, but I knew I'd eventually figure it out. That was before I was really sewing with any regularity.

Recently I've found myself planted on the floor at Barnes & Noble in front of the "fashion design" section. Not finding anything too inspiring (fashion design these days apparently includes bulky impractical geometry or whipped cream shapes), I slowly made my way to the Art section - to find ONE thin paperback of Mucha sketches, not in color)... so I did further research and found my next passionate project for beautiful attire...

{ click images to view closer detail }

I love LOVE the pink dress on the left from a White Star Champagne label. What a great color combination. The drapes over the arms and the flower adornments are quite elegant. The body of the dress is quite simple but flattering, with a train in the back.

In many works I've noticed thin-strapped & plated jewelry sewn into the clothing, as seen in the "Amethyst" figure on the left. Very interesting. On the right, I love the peachy pink and sea foam green color combination amongst the folds & drapes (plus this model makes me happy to embrace my pale-toned nature).

"Lillies" on the left has a very simple dress design but is also very gorgeous, especially if a fabric lily could be worked into it somehow, or perhaps along a lower fold in the front.

These two show some shoulder drape detail, but also notice the great hair piece designs!

Currently I'm about to finish my first "Famous, But Yours" gown, to go live in my shop this week.. but I definitely, definitely plan to address this inspiration soon after. I'm very excited! I think I'll start with the pink White Star Champagne label gown.

Incredibly gorgeous.

Happy Birthday Giveaway!!

Happy Birthday one•little•m! As of November 23, we'll be 1 year old,
so to celebrate we're giving you a chance to win a FREE handmade prize!
Guys may enter too! There's a guy prize and a girl prize, but only one winner!

Enter by commenting on the cupcake birthday image here on Facebook.

If you aren't a Facebooker, just reply to this message and I'll make sure to submit your name.
A name will be drawn and announced at the end of the day November 23.

Purse de Leon

I'm really excited to introduce a new item this week. I personally have the pickiest taste in hand bags, and lately stores seem to be stocking more and more shapeless, over-sized and bottomless pit type styles that really don't compliment my style or function at all.

I needed something that stays completely out of my way when worn, but also is easy to access. I'm an active person, and I can't stand shoulder bags that fall in front of me when I lean over, so across the chest slings are a must!

Introducing Purse de Leon! Named after the explorer, yes, because I felt this style is really great for active, traveler/adventure type folks. It's also a rather practical style featuring 2 large outer pockets, one that buttons for securing items safely, the other with no button for papers, and ease-of-access type items. The straight side has a zipper enclosure and the interior is fully lined with a velcro-shut pocket. It can be worn across the chest or just over the shoulder.

The fabric is a very heavy and durable brocade on the one displayed here, which I would suggest for any custom orders of this bag as it will weather very well, and is also washable.

Purse de Leon - in Sage Brocade
see more about this item here

Men Can Wear •m• Too!

One•little•m is officially not just for ladytypes!

I'm really excited to open the men's section with a great new item, a fully customizable western-style shirt. I made this one for my dear husband who is very much into space and rockets. It features hand-embroidered designs on the chest and back yoke, contrasting piping along the edges and pearl snap buttons... and it looks so handsome on him!

This was my first project for trying embroidery, piping and pearl snapping.. the latter to which I discovered the great usefulness of using this tool, because snapping isn't as quick and easy as it seems! Must. have. tools. I say, it's fun acquiring new tools though. Improves efficiency.

See more info about this guy here.

I have to say there's a real delight in being able to offer men's clothing (particularly this item with it's illustrational possibilities because it's so fun!) but it gives me an edge to appeal to menfolks, which I enjoy because I, yes, used to be a tomboy desiring to be thought "cool" by boytypes. So I hope that being able to offer this and other men's attire in the future will change the "only for women" notion about my shop, and to now provide opportunity to connect with all people - and I like that balance.